The drive from Killarney was favorable as usual, despite there having been a spot of rain earlier that morning. We have been very fortunate in respect to weather throughout our trip.
Arriving in Kinsale, we found our way to Main Street through the winding and picturesque – if mildly unnerving – lanes. After a bit of shopping and directions from a produce vendor, we somehow managed to find our accommodations, the Old Presbytery. By happenstance, there was a cancellation just that day, leaving the somewhat better room above ours available. The owners, Philip and Noreen, upgraded us into this suite at no cost.
The room had a sun room, and marvelous rooftop balcony with a splendid view. Given the fair weather, we sat on the balcony chairs and read for a quite bit, taking in the scene.
We toured the downtown of Kinsale, and fell in love with it. The narrow, winding roads, despite being dreadful for driving, were charming to walk along. They had no end of quaint, compact shops. We enjoyed a lunch at the Old Bank Cafe, and stopped in a few other places. Up the way from our B&B, really only fifty yards or so, is Desmond Castle. Built around 1500, it’s been restored and is now home to the International Museum of Wine.
We stopped in at an extremely quaint pub called the Tap Tavern, operated by Brian O’Neill and his mother Mary. Having done some research, Cindy read about a 16th-century Norman well that had been discovered just behind the pub in 1999. We both checked it out and there it was, behind a short rail fence, with steps leading down eight feet or so. They had found bones and some curious carvings in the well, upon discovery. It was almost bizarre to realize that present-day pub was the site where Normans drew water, more than five centuries ago.
We enjoyed a Beamish and a Murphy stout, and as we sat there, it felt as though the patrons who entered were members of Brian and Mary’s extended family. The entire place was as big as a living room, and couldn’t hold more than fifteen people comfortably. They were charming and gracious folk.
Dinner was at Jim Edwards, just two streets over from the Tap Tavern. There, we finally talked to a server and confirmed that as a rule servers never ask you if you’re done. You always tell them you’re ready for the check. Sitting and enjoying conversation with your dinner companion is the priority here, whereas turning tables is more important at home.
It was another excellent day in Ireland, and the enchanting Kinsale.