Today we bid a reluctant farewell to Castle Kilronan after a lovely breakfast and a 2.3k walk down to the lake and through the woods behind the castle. Very peaceful.
The view of Castle Kilronan from the back.
Eric is getting much more confident in his driving so the two hour trip to Westport was largely uneventful. We made a comfort stop at a gas station though, which consisted of a shed around the back with a door that didn’t shut all the way and a bath towel for hand drying. It was quite funny really. We also picked up 1/2 pound of white cheddar and sugar glazed baked ham and a loaf of brown bread for $8. This is not Kraft American and lunch meat, but high quality yumminess. Local and fresh tastes good.
Arrived at the Westport Coast Hotel on Clew Bay and near the base of Crough Patrick. Every year pilgrims make the barefoot 2-1/2 hour trek to the top to honor St. Patrick. A while later we walked across the street for dinner at the Towers which has a great view of the mountain from their terrace and we were able to see a beautiful sunset from there. Food was again amazing and we did another seafood platter – best mussels I’ve ever had, smoked and baked salmon, haddock, crab claws and oysters (our first step towards raw – these were steamed). Had a few “craft beers” which the Irish haven’t quite mastered yet. OK, not great.
The sunset over Clew Bay, Clough Patrick to the left.
The highlight of the day was a taxi trip into town to hear trad music at the world famous Matt Malloy’s. Matt is the flute player for the Chieftains, the most well-known Irish traditional band. Now, being that every American tourist that wants to go to a Westport pub goes to Malloy’s, I was a little dubious that it would not be a tourist trap. Not so. We arrived at 8:30 and were not even sure if they were open. It consists of three very small front to back rooms and we weren’t sure where the music would be since there was no sort of stage area. We proceeded to the very back room with the fireplace and found seats at one of the three tables. All the rest of the seating was stools against the walls. Still not sure where the music would be. Over the next half hour it filled in until everything was taken except the corner table next to us. Ah, this is where the musicians sit! A lovely couple from southeast Ireland sat with us. Turns out the husband was from Belgium originally and they met and began to fall in love in the very pub we are going to visit and stay at on Friday. We talked to them throughout the evening and they invited us for a visit next Tuesday as we will be staying overnight about 12 miles from their house. At nine o’clock, three guys with a button accordion, a mandolin and a banjo came in with their pints full, sat down and began to play. It was a wonderful experience, very intimate and communal. These musicians played, drank beer and talked. Very casual and cool. Occasionally, one guy would sing as well and the crowd would join in. Our new Belgian friend even busted out a complicated whistle solo during one song much to the delight of the band and crowd. A few pints and hours later our first experience with trad music was over and we look forward to Friday in Doolin, the trad capital of Ireland.
One thought on “Lake to Ocean March 18”
Sounds loooov-ly! I am envious of the musical experiences. What a great trip planner you are!
Sounds loooov-ly! I am envious of the musical experiences. What a great trip planner you are!