Coal and Castle: Our Anniversary Day

The 17th started out very nicely, with a lovely sunrise over Lough Ree. I went out that morning to sketch the small tower just off the shore.

Heading north toward Castle Kilronan, we decided to check out the Arigna Mining Experience, an attraction designed to show you what it was like in Ireland’s last operating coal mine.

The experience was remarkable. Our guide – as are all the guides there – was a former miner himself, having worked those mines for 21 years decades ago. He led us into the coal mine shafts, some 600 yards or so, describing in detail the process of blasting the rock, grinding out the coal, and shoveling and hauling it out. This was all done in two 8-hour shifts. It was a miserable, back-breaking life, and seeing their workplace up close was both educating and grim. We both wore hard hats, and fortunately there were no tight spaces. Outside it afforded a beautiful view of the surrounding rolling land and the village below.

Heading out of the Arigna area, after a brief geographical diversion, we made it to Castle Kilronan. We can safely say the Castle did not disappoint in any respect. It was a visual feast, the accommodations were amazing, and the staff very professional.

Our room was outstanding, with a gorgeous view. Among the amenities was something the girls would enjoy:

Our first treat was the hour-long Indian head massage, during which we both fell asleep, at least for a few minutes. We then enjoyed the spa services, which included a sauna (really, really hot), a steam room (really, really hot and really steamy), and a very large jacuzzi. This included four massive spigots that blasted firehose-pressure jets of water onto your  unsuspecting body. That was supposed to be soothing somehow, I think. But our favorite part of this was what could only be called shower thrones – huge seats with armrests, made of river rock, in which we sat and enjoyed a shower pouring down on us.

We then readied for dinner, for which Cindy had a dazzling black dress I hadn’t seen before. The dinner was more than amazing. We enjoyed a bottle of Spanish red – a Percolo Tinto Tempranillo. The meal consisted of: an Amuse Bouche of duck spring roll with beet paint; starters: Eric – Rose Veal Wellington, roasted potato dumpling, pearl onion confit, and crispy maple ham; Cindy – Silver Hill goose foie gras, duck liver pate, glazed figs, toasted brioche and amaretto cherry compote; a strawberry sorbet with champagne for both of us between the starters and the mains; main courses: Cindy – lemon sole, gurmand and crab meat mousse, parseley potato and buerre blanc sauce; Eric – pan-seared Silver Hill duck breast, duck leg confit, butternut squash, pine kernels, all in a red wine and orange sauce; desserts: Eric – Caramel Delight consisting off carmelized pear in filo, caramel mousse, and a caramel anglaise egg nog; Cindy – roasted peach sabayon, chili chocolate, and almond crisp. Yum.

We ended the evening by watching most of P.S. I Love You, one of Cindy’s favorites. All in all, a wonderful day.