Inch Beach: Sand and Salt Water, March 21

We left Doolin after another healthy breakfast. We bid the cliffs and sea goodbye for the time being, passing near Castle Doonagore, on a rise overlooking the town. It was built nearly 500 years ago, and while all castles belong to the country, this tower castle has been the private summer residence of a family since the 70’s. Cindy was disappointed to hear they can never be leased to anyone else, as she wanted to make it her own summer getaway.

Our destination for the day was Inch Beach, and to get there, we would be taking a car ferry. This saved more than 80 miles of additional driving through the notably un-picturesque Limerick. The drive was fine, with very  nice weather, and we reached Kilrush in good time. The Shannon Ferries took us over to Tarbert in less than half an hour.

Aside from a trip out to see the Statue of Liberty when I was very young, that was the first time I’ve been on the ocean. The trip over cost us €18. I handed the ferryman a ten euro bill and a handful of assorted coins totaling eight euros, which I had counted three times. The man took the change, and asked “Are you sure it’s eight?” I assured him I had counted it more than once, and he just pocketed it and nodded without counting. This was only one of many instances of how the Irish trust people won’t misbehave.

Our drive then took us to Listowel, then onto Tralee, and finally to Inch Beach, after a brief diversion eastward. The vistas there are amazing. We found Sammy’s, a restaurant owned and operated by the same fellow who had built our B&B, Inch Beach Guest House.

The beach was littered with surfers, despite the chill wind and very cold waters of the Atlantic. The sign on a nearby surfing shop said it offered the cheapest surfing rentals “in the world”.  But a wetsuit and board for €5? I daresay their claim is true. We checked into the house, which offered a wonderful beach view.

Then we headed down to the beach where we parked our car alongside many others. Doffing our footgear, we picked up some shells and the frigid waves washed up the sands, and over our feet. We had set down our shoes near the car, but when I went to fetch them, I barely managed to grab them before the water  swept them down the beach – a sure sign the tide was coming in. Cindy suggested we depart before our little Skoda was washed away as well.

We had dinner at Sammy’s beachside restaurant, where I had fish and chips and Cindy had a remarkably delicious seafood pasta of salmon, mussels and shrimp. It was the best seafood pasta I’ve ever tasted. We watched the sunset fade over oceans and mountains, and later read at the guest house as we were lulled to sleep by the sound of ocean waves crashing gently. I could really get used to that.