Today started out with a science event that was not viewable in the US. A 93% occluded solar eclipse. Weather conditions were just right where we were on the Galway bay so that we could see it clearly. There was a light fog and hence no damage to our eyes. It took about an hour for it to get up to 93% and it got very creepy with the dark and fog. Zombie time! Other parts of Ireland were too overcast and we have yet to run into anyone else that was fortunate enough to see it. Very lucky for us. It’s going to be about 10 more years before there will be another one in Ireland. Bonus: an Irish lady did our dirty laundry while this was going on, saving us a laundromat trip. After the fog lifted a bit we were on the road.
Since Eric has become a champ at driving, we decided to practice stopping along the way between point A and B. First stop – Burren Chocolates. Unlike other Irish chocolate shops who import the chocolate to make their treats, Burren Chocolates imports the raw cocoa beans and roasts and processes them in house. Can’t get fresher than that! After buying a few treats back on the road.
Next stop – Burren perfumery. A lovely little complex in the middle of the Burren (think alien landscape) where they make soaps and balms and perfumes from scratch. Bought a lovely perfume and some soaps.
Leaving the shop, Eric encountered his most difficult driving to date. Hairpin s-curves down a hill with no guard rails whatsoever on a one track road with two way traffic. Luckily, we only encountered 2 cars. About 15 minutes of very sweaty driving for the driver and passenger.
Next stop – Burren smokehouse where we learned about hot and cold smoking and bought some cold smoked salmon for lunch later.
Arrived at our B&B in Doolin only to find that our host forgot to write down our reservation and had no room. However, his next door neighbor had availability and we were able to go right over and get our room. It turned out to be an even lovelier place with a view of the ocean from our room. Settled in and had our salmon, some bread, cheese and wine with beautiful weather on the deck.
We decided to get to the Cliffs of Moher while the getting was good so we headed over there about 4 o’clock. I was there 12 years ago when the Visitor Center was a double wide trailer and the path to the top was dirt with a cyclone fence. Things have changed a lot since then, a terrific visitors center built into the cliff and a paved and stone fenced path on the north face. Now you can go up the south face as well. However, since the south face path has no rail whatsoever, which made us dizzy and nauseous just thinking about it, we choose the north face. It was a wonderful moment to take someone who I deeply love to one of the most stunning places I’ve ever seen in my life. I’m a happy girl!
Back in Doolin, we walked a mere 3 houses down from our B&B to O’Connor’s pub for dinner and more trad music. After dinner, we were able to snag a table right next to the musicians. There was a fiddle, drum and two banjos. The younger banjo player was really good and when he sang by himself with no instrument, you could have heard a pin drop in a room with 50 people. Really cool experience. Some seventy-five year old guy sitting at the bar also just started busting out an solo with no music and then just went back and sat down at the bar. Cool. Stayed for a few hours drinking Guinness and whiskey and then just walked a few steps home. Don’t think I’ve been that lucky since college.
Another amazing day in Ireland.
I really want to see the cliffs, and the pub experience sounds devine!
I too love the Cliffs of Mohr and have some good pix. Speaking of good pix, the shot of the eclipse is stunning. And I changed my mind, u can buy me soap if u get another chance. My supply is getting low ☺ Loving this diary.